Long ago, in a different Telluride

I first visited Telluride a long time ago. I visited several times in successive years and I always had a pleasant stay and very productive photography. It was a busy little town, but it had a distinctive charm. The hustle and bustle faded as the sun set. You could drive just north of town past the airport, on a dirt road known as the Last Dollar Road, to gaze at some of the most awesome scenery in the United States. When you were in town you could figure out where you were allowed to park your car, have a nice meal, and a get good night's sleep. Of course that was then and this is now.

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The Last Dollar - Private, Exclusive, and Expensive

It is a fundamental law of the universe that all privately owned land will eventually be subdivided and developed to maximize the cash in someone's pocket. The area around Telluride excels in this regard. Some of my best images were taken long ago along the Telluride end of the Last Dollar Road. Most of those scenes no longer exist. Being private, exclusive, and expensive is what Telluride is about these days. In keeping with that theme some very private, exclusive, and expensive resorts and housing developments have sprouted like weeds along the scenic and still unpaved Last Dollar Road. These places are big, and even have private hiking trails that connect to the National Forest trail system. Of course, hikers of the private trail systems venturing into the national forest can face horrific encounters with other hikers who might smile and say "hello" as they pass. It's a harsh world, and even the elite have to deal with some of it.

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Even though there is little traffic, signs along the Telluride end of the Last Dollar Road say you are not allowed to stop. The pull offs are still there, but they are barricaded with logs and boulders. The apparent reason you are not allowed to stop and admire the view is because the foreground of that view now consists of multi-million dollar houses along with their grand access roads and other accouterments. There are still some great views, but they presumably belong solely to the land owners on either side of the road. The good news is that if you go far enough down the Last Dollar Road you eventually get into National Forest land where you are allowed to enjoy and photograph any views you may find.

Alphabet Soup

The town of Telluride is more than busy, it's frantic. If you stay in the old town, bring plenty of aspirin and money. The aspirin is for the headache you'll get when you try to put your car someplace. The money is for everything else. Better yet, bring your lawyer along to decipher the alphabet soup of Telluride's parking regulations. The added expense of the lawyer may negate the need for some, but not all, of the Aspirin. You'll need a "G" permit if your car will be parked on a street near your hotel for more than two hours between 8 AM and 6 PM, except for Sunday, and sometimes Friday, depending on the street. Of course you can simply move your car to a public lot across town and hoof it back to your hotel for a mid-day nap. Easy, huh? Or, you can spend an extra hundred or so dollars per night for a hotel that has private parking. Just think of it as a $100 room for you and a $100 parking place for your car.

Noise
Did I mention that Telluride is noisy? Don't plan on going to bed early unless you're a sound sleeper. Otherwise you'll be kept awake by the periodic crashing of glass beer bottles as they fall into dumpsters behind the countless bars and restaurants. Then there's the music which emanates from the pubs, which keep their doors and windows open in spite of cold outdoor temperatures. Ah, blissful relaxation...
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Streetlights and Flashlights
Another useful tip is to not arrive in Telluride for the first time after dark. In an effort to be quaint the town has replaced its street lights with dim lights that look like old gas street lamps. They're actually quite nice, but none are placed near the street signs. In order to find a given street you need to park your car at each crossroad you come to, get out, walk up to the sign, and read it. Since you are not allowed to park anywhere, a better solution is to have a passenger and a flashlight. Simply instruct your passenger to shine the flashlight on the street signs and quickly read them as you pass. If you brought your lawyer along to decipher the parking regulations, he or she can perform this task.

Seeing and Photographing the San Juan Mountains - Alternatives
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The San Juan Mountains are perhaps the most beautiful and rugged mountains to be found anywhere on earth. They are a destination with remarkable possibilities for both spirit and camera. Unfortunately this area is an intricate patchwork of private and National Forest lands that was never set aside as a national park or monument. Consequently, increasing numbers of roads, cabins, houses, no trespassing and private property signs, especially in the vicinity of Telluride, are inexorably changing the area's character. This rapidly advancing trend is is certain to consume much of the area's beauty in fairly short order. For now, I recommend staying in the towns like Ridgeway, Ouray, Silverton, and Lake City, and others. In some ways these towns are a bit like the Telluride of days gone by, and they are in the heart of the most scenic and least developed areas of the San Juan Mountains. If you are going, I urge you to go soon.

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You can access plenty of great scenery using a normal car and a pair of sneakers. You get much better access if you have a high clearance four wheel drive vehicle with low range gearing and a good set of hiking boots. Some of the old and rocky mining roads are as bad as the terrain is beautiful. Venturing far on them demands a very capable vehicle or strong legs and good footwear.

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The town of Ridgeway may not be as scenic as Telluride, but you can find great food, a quiet rest, and it's centrally located for photographers, hikers, and sight seers. You simply can't go wrong with breakfast at Sandy's Sunshine Kitchen and dinner at the Sun Palace Chinese restaurant. Ridgeway has many nearby and well maintained National Forest access roads that lead to remarkable scenery. Don't overlook the Owl Creek Pass road, suitable for any car,  just north of town. Ridgeway is definitely the best place to stay for photographing sunrise and sunset from the Dallas Divide, which lies only eight to ten miles west. Ridgeway is only ten miles from Ouray, and about an hour's drive from Telluride.
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Ouray is what Telluride should be. Ouray itself is very scenic, and incredible natural areas lie only minutes away. If you want to stay in a quaint and slightly touristy old mining town that hasn't yet gone Hollywood, this is the place.
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Silverton is at the one end of the Durango Silverton Scenic Railway. This is a ride worth taking if time permits. Advance reservations are a must. Fall colors come early to Silverton, and they are breathtaking. The town is a bit touristy but comfortable. 

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Lake City is far away from everything, quiet, and serene. This is a very small town, but it has everything you need.